# 1st TUTORIAL** Subdued Fall 2007 Nude Eye/OrangeRed Lip ***



## ratmist (Oct 23, 2007)

Okay so this is my first tutorial and also the first time I've shown my face on Specktra.  I tend to post in the Deep Thoughts subforum and randomly post.  Be gentle - I'm not particularly wonderful with makeup, nor do I claim to be.

This tutorial is for this look:







Grumpy Ratty!






Aww, I'm not that mean.  Anyway, so here's how we start.






The stuff I use:

Brushes:

129SE Powder Brush
190SE Foundation brush
187SE "Skunk" Brush
#10  Stila eyebrow brush (***suchlove***)
209SE  eyeliner
219SE pencil brush
275SE medium angled shading brush
213SE fluff brush
239SE eye shading brush
217SE tapered blending brush
185  Buffer Brush

Tools:
Shiseido eyelash curler
unknown brand mascara comb/wand/eyebrow groomer

Colours/Foundations:
NYC Colour browser in brunette
Guerlain meteorites powder in mythic01
Chanel Double Perfection Compact SPF10 in 80 Contour
Touche Eclat in shade 2
Kanebo Exclusive Bio Concealer in shade Medium
MAC Shadestick in colour Blurburry
MAC fluidline in colour Rich Ground
MAC eyeshadows:  Romp and Shroom
Shu Uemura eyeshadow:  summer 2007 limited edition shade P Kaihaku 
Longcils Boncza Cake Mascara in Brown
MAC Mineralskinfinish - Stereo Rose

Start with a freshly washed, toned and moisturised face.






I use concealer under my eyes and on some red splotchy spots on my cheeks and on my chin.  I use the 190 foundation brush to apply the concealer because it's faster.  I then very sparingly apply the Chanel foundation with the fine sponge in the compact.  I usually use the sponge wet to get a very sheer coverage.  I do not like a heavy look.  I'm trying to go for a very sheer, almost invisible natural coverage.






It's a bit powdery looking but that's okay.  It'll get blended/buffed down later.






Dip the stiff #10 Stila brush into the wax and apply a thin coat into the brows.  Then dip into the powder and apply.  






Brows done.  I don't really like my brows but that's a topic for another time. My hair is naturally very dark, nearly black, but right now it's a lighter with caramel and dark blond tones.  So I don't reach for Carbon; I'm going for a warmer tone.





I forgot to picture the Urban Decay Primer Potion, but this is basically the amount you need for an eyelid.  I wear contacts so I'm constantly rubbing at my eyes.  This stuff is the only thing that prevents my shadow from being rubbed off.  However, I have very sensitive skin, so the silicone-based formula has to be applied thinly or I sometimes start feeling itchy.






Bare eye.  Kinda boring.






I use the 275se to pick up Shroom and apply all over the lid and up to the browline.





















That's the basic 'base' colour, but Shroom has a bit of shine to it so it's not matte.  It's more of a subtle lustre that barely shows up on my skintone on its own.

Pick up the Shu Uemura colour - but first, marvel at how pretty it is.






I almost couldn't disturb it because those little white 'dots' don't go all the way through the shadow - it's just on the top layer.  Anyway I'm using the 213se.  Apply on the lid only, stop just above the crease.  
















Apply to the bottom lashline too - don't worry about making it perfect.  It should be kinda messy.






The whole thing's messy and that's okay.  It'll get blended.  That's the beauty of a simple look like this - it's foolproof.  Pick up Romp with an angled fluffy brush - I use a 275se.






Draw the top of the outer V...






Then lightly pack into the corner...






Turn the brush and drag from the corner over the crease and into the inner V area.  






This brush is a bit wide for the job so it doesn't get into the inner V very well, but that's okay.  You can change brushes if you want but you'll be blending anyway, so don't fret.

Unblended:






Blended:






And blended even more:






So the look is really quite light and gentle.  I do not pack on the darker shadows.  If you want to know why, look at the current catwalks for 2007 - particularly Stella McCartney, Chloe and some of Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel line.  I am not fond of the nude look on lips because of my skintone, but the nude, slightly lustrey and metallic-rimmed eyes are so sexy.  Anyway, moving on, pick up Blurburry or any other cream stick that has a shimmery, metallic red.






It doesn't have to be sharpened, obviously.  Just make sure that it's creamy and ready to go.  Sometimes the shadesticks get a bit dry.






Start in the centre of the upper eyelid lashline and use short, gentle strokes.  We do not want a thick line - just a thin one as close to the lashline as possible.  






I tend to go over it a few times to make sure it's thick (without making it wider!).  






Upper lashline done.  Do the bottom lashline from the centre to the outside corner of the eye.  My eyes are wide and slightly oblong so I don't narrow them by doing the whole lashline.  I prefer a wide-eyed look.






So now we're looking rather consumptive.  So pick up Romp with a pencil brush - I use a 219se.






And go over the Blurburry with Romp.






I always seem to start in the centre and work my way outwards, then start from the inner and work my way back to the centre.  That way I don't screw up.






That's a helluva harsh line.  Let it set for a sec.  Pick up Rich Ground and line the bottom lashline.






For those that have trouble using Fluidlines, try using a very very very pointed, very finely pointed brush.  The idea is to use the very tip, like the tip of a needle - not the whole brush.  Just dip that tiny bit into the fluidline and end up with an amount something like this:  






And even there I went a bit too far into the pot.  I'm only going to use the tiny tip on the edge of the point.  This is a 209se. I find that the 209se is better than the long-handled (full size) version when applying gel eyeliners to yourself because you typically have to get your face very close to a mirror to control the application. I always got the long handle in the way and ended up irritated with the process. The short-handle one is easier.

Anyway, apply to the lower lashline:






And then use the 209 pencil brush - which will have leftover Romp on it - to blend the fluidline into the Blurburry colour:






Eye nearly done:






Wasn't entirely pleased so I blended a bit more.  This eye again, nearly done:






Now for the fun part.  This is cake mascara.  I adore it.  The base is beeswax so it's ultra gentle on my lashes and on my eyes.  Again, I'm a contact lense wearer, so gentle formulas are a must.  This particular brand is the French brand Longcils Boncza, which was apparently a favourite of Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe.  Whatever - I'm sure they used more false lashes than this to build up their lashes, because this stuff really isn't about volume or thickness.






To activate, drop 1-2 large droplets of water onto the cake.  If you have undrinkable tap water in your area, use bottled water.  This is good ole' Edinburgh tapwater.






Use the mascara brush to swirl the water into the cake.  Eventually the top of the cake will take on the consistency of normal mascara.  






Use the lash curler (I skipped the photo on that because it's bloody hard to take a photo of one's self doing that, and anyway we all know how to do it).  Apply the mascara as normal.






Mascara done, this is the finished eye, open:






I don't apply to the lower lashline.  You can if you want, of course.  My lashes are very straight and very long, so they constantly get caught in each other if I'm wearing mascara on the upper and lower lashline.  So I usually pick the top lashline and leave the bottom one alone.

I'm well aware this look isn't appealing to those that adore lots of colour, but I work as an archaeologist.  It's an Old Boys' Club (or what I like to call the Beardy Blokes Club).  Neutral or very subtle looks are the only acceptable look if you want to be taken seriously.  I save the bright shiny looks evenings at the pub.






The line is a bit harsh, but I don't mind.  I'm more concerned about the darkness under the eyes, despite the concealer.  






Two clicks on the Touche Eclat...






Then blend with fingertips or the 190 foundation brush...






Pic isn't great on this, but later pictures in brighter light will show the light reflecting properties of the Touche Eclat.  Eyes totally done, in the home stretch now:






Very very gently swirl the tips of the 187 skunk brush into the Stereo Rose.   A *tiny* bit of this stuff goes a freaking long way, so don't go mad with it.






Smile for the camera... and fill out the apple of the cheek, and sweep to the hairline of the 'sideburns'.






My holy grail lip colour is the extremely cheap KissnTell from The Body Shop.  I found it when I was about 16 and haven't stopped wearing it.  It's been discontinued and I found a seller on eBay that had 6 of them.  I bought them all and they've got to last until I die, lol.






I don't bother to line my lips because KissnTell is a lip crayon.  Last but not least, I take a dusting of Guerlain's gorgeous Meteorites powder over the entire face but avoiding the eyes.  It smells like roses and leaves a very fine, very subtle glimmer.  I wore this on my wedding day.






We're done.





We're still done.






Seriously dude, we're done.


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## Hilly (Oct 23, 2007)

prettyy!!


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## Shimmer (Oct 23, 2007)

I love your lips!


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## ratmist (Oct 23, 2007)

Quote:

   Originally Posted by *Shimmer* 

 
_I love your lips!_

 
Aww, thank you!  I wish they weren't so uneven.  If I play with lip liners I can get them to match evenly but the rest of my face is noticeably assymetrical so I don't bother.

Anyway, been meaning to say for a while that I really love your hair!  *huge huge lust/wish that I could get away with red hair*


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## ratmist (Oct 23, 2007)

Quote:

   Originally Posted by *Hilly* 

 
_prettyy!!_

 
Aww, heh.  Thank you!


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## MsCuppyCakes (Oct 23, 2007)

Great tutorial and your commentary is hilarious.


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## ratmist (Oct 23, 2007)

Quote:

   Originally Posted by *MsCuppyCakes* 

 
_Great tutorial and your commentary is hilarious._

 
Thank you!


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## frocher (Oct 23, 2007)

Great job, thanks for the tut.


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## ratmist (Oct 23, 2007)

Quote:

   Originally Posted by *frocher* 

 
_Great job, thanks for the tut._

 
I've been using other peoples' tutorials for a long time so I thought I'd try my hand at it.  It takes forever but it was fun.  My skillz aint l33t though so I don't think I'll do another one anytime soon... it'd probably end up being another 'neutral eye + bright lip' one because lately that's all I seem to have time to wear.


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## chocolategoddes (Oct 23, 2007)

that lash stuff is soo cool!!! you look great.


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## Janice (Oct 23, 2007)

Thanks for sharing, I love the lips too SEXY! It's always nice to be able to put a face to the name too.


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## nyrak (Oct 24, 2007)

Lovely tutorial!  Thanks so much for posting it : )


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## ratmist (Oct 24, 2007)

Quote:

   Originally Posted by *Janice* 

 
_Thanks for sharing, I love the lips too SEXY! It's always nice to be able to put a face to the name too._

 
Thank you.


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## ratmist (Oct 24, 2007)

Quote:

   Originally Posted by *chocolategoddes* 

 
_that lash stuff is soo cool!!! you look great._

 
*big huge love for cake mascara*  I'd avoid Lola Loves Lashes.  Piece-o-crap packaging and stupidly expensive.  That being said, Longcils Boncza is not cheap either though (I paid about $24USD for mine - it was £12), but it lasts forever and doesn't take on bacteria the way tube mascaras can.  If I pair it up with my Shiseido The Makeup mascara base (primer), I get fat, full lashes that stay curled forever.  Try it!


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## ratmist (Oct 24, 2007)

Quote:

   Originally Posted by *nyrak* 

 
_Lovely tutorial!  Thanks so much for posting it : )_

 
Heh, thanks.  I can't hold a candle to the real makeup goddesses around here though, but it was fun making the tutorial.


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## nunu (Oct 24, 2007)

great tutorial!!
thanks


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## Karen_B (Oct 24, 2007)

Quote:

   Originally Posted by *Shimmer* 

 
_I love your lips!_

 
I was going to say the same thing!


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## AfricanaEyes (Oct 24, 2007)

You are beautiful!!


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## belldandy13 (Oct 24, 2007)

you are very beautiful!  i need your lips...


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## n_c (Oct 24, 2007)

Quote:

   Originally Posted by *Karen_B* 

 
_I was going to say the same thing!_

 
Same here


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## MACATTAK (Oct 24, 2007)

Very nice tut!  That cake mascara is really cool!!


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## delidee32 (Oct 24, 2007)

Great tutorial, thanks for posting.  I love the Meteorites powder it looks like candy...yum


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## ratmist (Oct 25, 2007)

Thanks everyone for being so supportive.


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## user79 (Oct 25, 2007)

Great look, it's really put together without being too much.


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## ratmist (Oct 25, 2007)

Quote:

   Originally Posted by *MissChievous* 

 
_Great look, it's really put together without being too much._

 
Thank you!  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  The idea is "Yes gents, I'm a chick" rather than:


"I'm an archaeologist because I secretly wish I was a boy" 

or 

"I might give you a blowjob if you fund my research..."


I like to think of it as a fine line to achieve that, when it comes to makeup looks that the old blokes find acceptable.  You want them to notice, but not *notice notice*, if you get what I mean?


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