# cosmetologist lessons



## Sanne (Feb 17, 2007)

Hi everyone!!

I’m doing a cosmetologist course, and I want to benefit you all with the information I got there and the things I’ve learned.

In my first lesson I got some practical tips, some more obvious than others, that will help you become a better make-up artist:

Always wash you hands before you touch the model. 
Brushes need to be cleaned after each use. Use shampoo to do that. 
Use a spatula or spoon to scoop moisturizer or make-up out of the jar. 
Be gently with the models head, don’t lean on it or use force to turn it. 
Don’t blow the excess powder from a brush, but tap it on your hand. 
Don’t use spit to remove small stains, but get a cup of water before you start with the make-up. 
When you smoke cigarettes, make sure you have a mint or gum in your mouth before you start, same with you’ve been eating smelly foods. 
Cover the clothes with a towel, to prevent falling powder to make stains. 
Don’t test products with your fingers, they’ll become greasy and even unusable in the long run. 
 
Before you start with your make-up, make sure you have all the cosmetics ready in your work field, so you don’t have to grab into you makeup case while you’re busy. It will also look better to your model and boss. Make sure you’ll do this every time.

First thing to do before applying make-up is to clean the face. Use cleaning milk with a cotton pad first, and if needed eyemake-up remover. Do not use any greasy products; oil will decrease the quality and the lasting power of the make-up. After the milk, use a toner, again with a cotton pad. Then apply a moisturizer, and don’t ever forget this, or the make-up will look dry!

First we’ll analyze the face; look at irregularity’s, spots, scars, shadows etc. 
We’re going to start off with the base make-up, and the goal is to even the skin and tone down the shine.

Okay now let’s start with the makeup!
This the base makeup, this order is used everytime you're doing make-up on someone. Note: the amount of coverage is different for every occation, and in this case it's high coverage. This will look great on photo, but not so much IRL. 

· Step 1 
Remove shadows
· Step 2
Cover red spots and zits
· Step 3
Apply more color if necessary.
· Step 4
Apply foundation.
· Step 5
Powder face.

*Remove shadows; *use concealer 2 to 4 shades lighter that the skintone. Most shadows are underneath the eyes, beside and below the nosewings, in the crease from nose to corner of the mouth, below the lower lip. Gently pat the concealer into the skin with your finger and leave no visible lines, so blend well.
Only use concealer where necessary. Analyze the model’s face well, if there is no shadow, don’t use concealer. 
If the circles under the eye still show a bit of blue, you can use a mix of orange and skin toned concealer to remove the blue. 
*Cover red spots and zits*; use green concealer. Simply tap a little concealer onto the read spot and pat it lightly into your skin with you finger. It’s okay if the green is still showing a bit; this will disappear after the next steps.
*Apply more color if necessary*; some people have a bit of a grey sheen on their face. To add a healthy glow to the face, apply some orange concealer onto the apple of the cheeks, and blend very well. 
*Apply foundation; *to even out the skin. Apply with sponge, brush or fingers. There are many different types of foundation.
· Tinted moisturizer: provides the least coverage, and is mostly used on a older skin. This skin had a lot of wrinkles and lines, and more coverage will exaggerate them. 
· Liquid foundation: used on older skin and ‘outdoor’ make-up. This foundation is very natural, but does not cover everything. Not suitable for photo and TV make-up.
· Cream foundation; this is the most used foundation in this course. It’s suitable for almost every skintype and almost every make-up. It has great coverage, but still looks natural.
· Compact foundation; this contains powder. They say you don’t need powder with this foundation but that is not true. This foundation is still greasy! Suitable for theatre and catwalk.
First find the right color foundation to match the skintone, test on the jaw line. Don’t go darker or lighter that the skintone! The color is right when it disappear into the skin. Apply the foundation on the whole face, use a sponge and apply with a patting motion. Be careful near the hairline, eyebrows and mustache, don’t leave residue in the hairs. Don’t forget to use foundation on the ears as well, and blend the foundation in the neck; make sure you cannot see lines where the foundation stops.
*Powder face*; after applying concealer and foundation, we’ll use powder to set the foundation, tone down shine and absorb oil. This is extra important for photos and TV. The wrinkles/creased need to be pulled smooth and then powdered off. For a light effect use a powder brush, for more coverage(tv/film/photo and theatre), use a powder puff. Always wipe the powder in the direction the hair grows. Use transparent powder, because it’s lighter than the skin tone.
If the model is too pale, use some brown/bronzing powder to add color. 

this was lesson one, I'll post again after lesson two!
enjoy!!
xxx Sanne


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## ~*Starlicious*~ (Mar 5, 2007)

Great post!! I really wanna take a class but my work hours and the location of the classes just don't work out. However, Im gonna keep on trying!!


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## Sanne (Mar 9, 2007)

*Eye makeup*

for this lesson you should remember 1 rule: Use dark shades to create depth and light colors to make features stand out.

*Step 1:*
Before the make-up, first take a moment to analyze the eyes; look at the shape, the size of the eyes, the size of the eyelid, the way the eyes are set in the face, are the close set or not, are they hooded, deep set, wide set etc. 

These are makeup tips for the following eyeshapes:


Round eyes, 
Deep set eyes, 
Small eyes, 
Hooded eyelids, 
Downturned eyes, 
Close set eyes, 
Wide set eyes. 
Round eyes:
When you take a good look at round eyes, you usually see that the eyelid is too big, and standing out a bit.

Steps:
· Make the eyelid (where it’s too big) darker,
· Don’t use frosted eyeshadow, especially not on the eyelid!
· Apply eyeliner with liquid eyeliner, eyepencil or wet eyeshadow. The line should be thicker in the middle of the eyelid.
· Don’t use thick lines at the bottom lashline, 
· Apply a black line to the waterline, this step is optional,
· Use a lot of mascara,
· Make eyebrows a little less round/curved, this will make the eye look less round.


Deep set eyes:
When you analyze the eyes, you’ll see that the eyes are usually deep set, and will give the model a tired look.

Steps:


To make the eyelid stand out, apply light and or frosted color on the eyelid, 
Make the crease slightly darker, 
Make sure the darker eyeshadow doesn’t go near the eyebrow. 
No dark eyeliner! 
Use white eyepencil on the waterline(this step is optional) 
Only use mascara on the tips of the lashes(when the model has dark lashes), or make sure the mascara is applied lightly with most of the mascara on the tips of the lash (when the model has blond lashes) 
Small eyes:
With small eyes it looks as if the space between the eye and the eyebrow is very small. But when you look again, you can see that it’s actually the eye that’s too small for the face.

Steps:
· Use a light colored eyeshadow on eyelid and below eyes
· Don’t use black/dark eyeshadow, eyeliner or eye pencils, this will make the eye look even smaller.
· Optional; make the eyebrows smaller, and don’t make them darker.
· Optional: use white eyeliner in the eye,
· The “eyeshadow lines” you make with eyeshadow in crease and below the eye should not be closed. This will make the eye look more open and therefore larger.
· Only use mascara on the tips of the lashes(when the model has dark lashes), or make sure the mascara is applied lightly with most of the mascara on the tips of the lash (when the model has blond lashes)

Hooded eyelids:
Hooded eyelids are hanging over the actual eyelid itself, and because of that it’s barely visible. This eye often looks tired.
Steps:

Try to make the ‘hanging’ eyelid darker, you need to make a optical crease. 
Make the eyelid itself lighter. 
Stay inside the working area(don’t go outside the line between the outer tip of the eyebrow and the outer corner of the eye). This is something you’ll easily do with this eyeshape. 
Apply highlighter underneath the highest part of the eyebrow. 
Do not use eyeliner or eyepencil on the upper lash line, 
The shadowline (the line drawn with eyepencil on the lower lashline) should be thin, if it ends thick on the outside, it can make the eye look even more tired. 
 
Down turned eyes (bedroom eyes)
The outer corner islower that the inner corner, or is pointing down. This gives a sad look.
Steps:

First of all: stay with your working area! 
Try to make the crease darker and thicker on the outer corner of the eye, going lighter and thinner towards the nose. This will optically lift the eye. 
Use eyeliner: near the nose make the line thin, and let it get thicker towards the outer corner. 
When you fill in the brows, start by the nose by making them a little lower, then draw them a little higher on the outer half of the brows. 
Use extra highlighter underneath the highest part of the eyebrows. 
 
Close set eyes:
Eyes are close set when there’s not enough space for one eye in between the eyes. 


To optically add more distance between the eyes, use light eyeshadow on the inner half of the eyes, and use dark eyeshadow on the outer half. Keep the eye open by not closing the shadowlines. 
Wide set eyes:
When there’s room for more than one eye in between the eyes, we speak of wide set eyes.


To bring the eyes optically closer, use darker colors on the inner corner and lighter colors on the outside of the eye. You can use a closed shadowline.


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## Sanne (Mar 9, 2007)

*Step 2*
After finding out the eye shape, we are going to decide what colors we’re going to use.


When the model is wearing black, white or grey clothes, we look at the eye color to choose the eyeshadow color. 
When there’s a dominant color in the clothing, we can bring it back in the eyeshadow, 
Don’t use green eyeshadow when the eye is a bit red. 
It’s very pretty to use purple/violet on green eyes, with the exception of the model having redness in the eye. The gives the model a “I just cried” look. 
The lighter the skin color and hair, the lighter the make-up, and the darker the skin and hair, the darker and dramatically the make-up. 
The eyeshadow color should never be brighter than the eyecolor. 
We are going to work with three colors:

Light color: for the inner corner and as highlighter, 
Medium color: this is the color that will stand out, like green blue, orange etc. 
Crease color: this should be darker than the medium color, and we’ll use this to add extra shadow to the eye.  
*Step 3*

After you’ve chose the colors, we’ll choose an eyepencil that matches to the other colors. Usually we use black, grey or brown. We’ll make a shadowline to the lower lashline; make sure this line goes in between the lashes. We’ll draw the shadowline from the outer corner towards the nose, and usually we stop in the middle of the eye. From there we’ll let the line blend away; we can use a cottonswap to blend the line out. To prevent the line from smudging, we’ll overdraw the line with eyeshadow; we’ll use the crease color for this. 
Next we’ll remove the spilled eyeshadow from underneath the eye, and apply some powder under the eye: dip your finger in the powder and press it onto the place you’ll probably spill your eyeshadow, underneath the eye and on the cheek, leaving a large amount of the powder. The eyeshadow you’ll spill will fall on the powder and when you’re done with the eyeshadow, you’ll sweep the excess powder away, leaving no stains.

*Step 4:*

The model closes her eyes. We’ll start with the lightest eyeshadow color; apply to the inner corner of the eyelid, and underneath the highest point of the eyebrows. Make sure that both eyes look the same!

*Step 5*

Now we’ll apply the medium color, let the model look straight forward, let her focus on the mirror for example. Lift her eyebrow with you thumb. Use a small dense brush (like the 239) and apply color moving the brush from the outer corner of the eyelid towards the crease. Always work from the outside towards the nose, this way you won’t work outside your working area, and you apply more color to the outer corner of the crease. Apply the medium eyeshadow color in the crease and blend it up toward the browbone, into the lightest color. Don’t go apply over an already applied color, this will make a mess. Apply colors side to side, and then blend the colors together with a clean brush.

*Step 6:*

Next thing to do is to apply the darkest color a lightly in the crease, and outer corner. How much you apply depends on the kind of make-up. For a natural make-up keep it light, maybe even skip this last step, but you can go bold with a glamour make-up. Make sure that the eyeshadow is symmetrical to both eyes, and blend the colors well.

*Step 7:*

This step is optional, depending on the eyeshape, but you can apply eyeliner to the eyelid, close to the lashes. The smaller the eyelid, the less eyeliner you apply.

*Step 8:*

Apply mascara. Lift the eyebrows with you thumb and let the model look down. After you’ve applied the mascara, bomb the lashes with a lash comb, to remove the clumps. This is very important is the make-up is for a photoshoot


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## ~LadyLocks~ (Mar 11, 2007)

OMG, 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 thank you so much, I just learned some well needed trix!


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## MxAxC-_ATTACK (Apr 1, 2007)

haha this takes me back! 
we were not allowed to wash our brushes with just shampoo we had to put them in Quats to sanatize them for 20 minutes.


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## VogueInfection (Apr 24, 2007)

Thank you so much!  This is more help than anything I've been able to find on the internet.


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## MACisME (Apr 24, 2007)

wooooow thanks you!


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## yummy411 (Apr 24, 2007)

thank you soooooo muchhhhh!! i've just been trying to find info on this!!! particular looks and makeup trick for different eye types! you are sooo dead on.. thanks so much for posting!!!


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## Sanne (Apr 25, 2007)

sweeties I'm a bit overexhausted lately, I still want to translate my lessons, but it won't be weekly anymore... just keep an eye on the thread, I'll update now and then!!

xxx Sanne


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## ninahxd (Jul 31, 2007)

THANKS! you're the best ;D


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## mello (Aug 13, 2007)

WOW thanks so much for posting this. You are truely amazing.


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## newagetomatoz (Aug 30, 2007)

Thanks so much!  This is awesome!  You have posted the basics and skills down in such an understandable way! You rock!


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## Holls* (Sep 13, 2007)

Hey! I love the tips. They are sooooo descriptive and exact. I'm looking forward to an update. Can we expect another one soon?


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